Tuesday 17 March 2015

Kulich A Russian Easter Bread Baked By A Non Russian


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The most festive day on the Russian Orthodox calendar is most likely Easter. It has to be. So much time, effort and I imagine fanfare go into baking just the Easter bread, kulich, for family and friends. This sweet Easter bread enriched with plenty of egg yolks, milk and butter is a true labour of love. 
It takes at minimum 10 hours to get a decorated kulich on the table. I imagine whilst happy to bake the kulich for family and loved ones, many an apron wearing grandma and mama must be silently relieved when all the kulich baking has been done. 

I baked 6 lots of kulichi (plural) before I baked a kulich that I was happy with. Is it difficult to bake? With no Russian or Ukrainian mother figure to guide me, yes it was difficult. 


There are many variables involved when baking a kulich. After 6 kulich baking sessions, that's 10 of the same loaves in 14 days, I know the ideal kulich baking scenario would be to have one of these experienced kulich bakers beside you as you bake. 


The baking process will then sail through without a hitch as Mrs. Kulich Baking Expert explains and demonstrates the finer points of baking that perfect kulich. Gone will be the dishevelled and exasperated me, scratching my head with floured hands for the umpteenth time wondering what else I could do to prevent my super large kulich from caving in at the bottom. The kulich did taste great though.


Having said that, this recipe can be very straight forward if you are less ambitious than me. I had my sights on baking the largest and tallest kulich I could possibly bake and that was where the challenges started. 


I had first seen pictures of beautifully baked kulichi in a now out of print food themed travelogue. The book was published in the late '60s or early '70s. One particular photograph stuck in my mind. 


It was a centerfold of a stunning kulich next to its accompaniment, paskha, a home made cheese spread studded with dried fruits. 

The kulich had a crown of flowing white icing. It had a dark crust and most importantly to me, it looked tall, sturdy and stood positively upright. No floppiness about it at all. I had to bake one just like it. 

I love that picture shot. It looked surreal.  For even more dramatic effect, kulich and paskha were starkly juxtaposed against a dark background and then illuminated by over 20 softly glowing candles. 


I trawled online and leaved through books. There are countless variations. The only constant amongst recipes were the copious amount of eggs, milk, butter and sugar. Spices vary - nutmeg, cardamon, saffron or a variation. One or two did not use fruits which I thought odd. I made up a recipe from what I had read and kept the loaf rich, sweet and soft.


Many recipes will ask for kulichi to be baked in a '2 lb coffee can'. Now, I have not lived in the USA for many years. I have a vague recall of how large a can that would be but I have gone metric for many years and where I live, there isn't a USA '2 lb coffee can' to be bought.


Instead of guessing, I should have done more research about the actual dimensions of this 'coffee can'. Then again, it would have saved me and everyone else attempting to bake kulichi for the first time, the hassle and many wasted kulichi, if actual can dimensions were given.


I have done the research and now all you have to do is to scroll down to my 'Tips' sections to find out the dimensions.  I have a picture of all the different size cans I have used to bake kulichi and advice on what to look out for when choosing cans for baking. Read it through as not only does can size matter, the thickness of the tin on the can also affects baking times.


I had baked my 3rd failed batch of kulichi. All the kulichi I had baked tasted great. It was soft, rich tasting and the saffron, nuts and fruits in them made them more wonderful to eat. 


However, I was still encountering the same 2 issues. The bread was rising so high in my emptied powdered chocolate malt (Milo) can (I have since come to realise that is a '3 lb coffee can')


Dimensions: (6.375"x7") (16x18cm)

Volume: (101us fl oz can) (3 litres) 

that the tops of the loaf would hit the heating element and upon removing the baked kulich from the can, the bottom third would again cave in. It would not stand upright and it was taking longer than expected to bake.


I stared woefully at my computer screen looking at more images of beautifully baked kulichi. 


It was then that I started to scrutinise the many kulichi in books and online. I realised that these sturdy looking kulichi were not baked in '3 lb coffee cans'. They were baked in '2 lb coffee cans', soup size cans or kulich baking paper pans (similar to cupcake/muffin paper cups) which you can buy but they are rather squat and naturally bake up squat looking kulichi that look more like cake. Not impressive if you compare it to taller ones that bake out from a '2 lb coffee can'.


So why don't more people bake it in '3 lb coffee can'? After all, I have read enough recipes that suggested "you could also bake it in a larger 3 lb can instead of using two 2 lb can". 


I cannot help but wonder if anyone of those who made the suggestion had actually baked it in a '3 lb coffee can'. If they had, they would have encountered the same hosts of challenges as I did unless of course they are seasoned kulich bakers and already have a pre-existing tried and tested '3 lb coffee can' for baking the kulich. It would have been ideal if I could be forewarned of the challenges I faced and informed of the extra care and effort needed to go into baking a '3 lb coffee can' kulich.


The cynic in me wonders, perhaps they did bake it in a '3 lb coffee can' and the Kulich collapsed and it was not good enough to be photographed and featured? I already find it heartwarming that there are many people who are willing to share their recipes and spend a lot of time putting their recipes down in readable format, so I certainly am grateful and if the recipe might need a bit of tweaking then I do it without getting myself too annoyed.


What am I trying to tell you? 


If you want a higher chance of success, bake '2 lb coffee can' or smaller sized kulichi. Easier still, purchase kulich baking paper pans - baking times will be shorter and it would be easier to tell when the loaf is baked through.


If you want a challenge and are a bit neurotic like me, bake the '3 lb coffee can' size. 


This recipe will bake one '3 lb coffee can' (if you get a can with the correct thickness of tin) and a '2 lb coffee can' size kulich. This recipe will also bake two '2 lb coffee can' kulichi plus one the size of a large can of peaches(fruit/vegetables).


Whatever size you choose, only fill the baking vessel between 1/3 and less than 1/2 full of dough and do scroll down to 'Tips' and read it through before baking.


Warning: This is a very lengthy recipe as I do want to include the details to ensure you have a successfully baked kulich on your first try.

Isn't it odd how my dog's head is similar in colour to the iced kulichi?
KULICH A RUSSIAN EASTER BREAD BAKED BY A NON RUSSIAN
Prep:
45 minutes

Cook:

50 minutes to 1 hour 25-30 minutes.

Varies based on the size of the baking vessel(s) and material from which the baking vessel(s) is made of. For more details, scroll down to 'Tips'.

Inactive:

First rise ~ 3 to 6 hours. Second rise ~ 2 to 3 hours. 

Level:

Intermediate to difficult as it depends in part on the size of the loaf you are baking and the material of the baking vessel. A bit technical and best to scroll down to 'Tips' to find out more.

Serves:

12 generously

Oven Temperature:

350F (175C) 

Can recipe be doubled?

No, unless you have 2 ovens or intend to work progressively and spread the baking throughout the day.

Make ahead?

Dough (without fruits and nuts) can be made ahead up to 2 days and refrigerated in a container 2X its volume to allow for expansion. Dough will not double which is fine. Once baked, kulichi keep well tightly covered and refrigerated up to 3 days. Freezes well.
Just the ingredients
The loaf
1 cup (4.93oz) (140g) mixture of dried fruits
1/4 cup orange juice
OR 1/4 cup rum
2 pinches saffron threads
3/4 cup milk
4 and 1/2 cups (1.34 lbs)(607 g) bread flour 
1 Tablespoon vital wheat gluten
3 teaspoons instant yeast
1 cup (7.05oz) (200g) sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 Tablespoons (2.5oz) (70g) unsalted butter
5 egg yolks
1 teaspoon vanilla essence
1/4 + 1/8 cup water
1 whole Sugar Frosted Tangerine 
OR 4 Tablespoons mixed citrus peel
1/3 cup (1.65 oz) (47g) slivered almonds 
Extra butter for buttering mixer bowl, dough, etc
Sugar Lemon Icing
2 cups icing sugar 
1 Tablespoon cream/milk
3 Tablespoons lemon juice (strained) 
Ingredients
The loaf

1 cup of dried mixed fruits

I have used currants, golden raisins, cranberries, mulberries, flame raisins and strawberries. Traditionally, raisins would be used.

1/4 cup orange juice (that has been strained) 
OR
1/4  cup rum

2 pinches saffron threads

3/4 cup milk 

4 and 1/2 cups (1.34 lbs)(607 g) bread flour

1 Tablespoon vital wheat gluten 
Vital wheat gluten is derived from the endosperm of the wheat berry and is often added to a bread dough mix to help bake a loaf with more volume. 

Vital wheat gluten can be purchased at better stocked supermarkets. I use Bob's Red Mill Vital Wheat Gluten. This does come in a 1 lb 6 oz (623g). It is a large bag so keep sealed and refrigerated. I use it often in my wholemeal loaves. Take a look at my recipe for Moroccan Inspired Wholemeal Round Loaves. It bakes beautiful, light wholemeal loaves with the addition of vital wheat gluten. 

For the same reason, I add vital wheat gluten into another sweet loaf, Braided Stollen With Three Logs Of Marzipan. It is a sweet loaf studded with fruits and threaded with marzipan. There is also my recipe for Hot Cross Buns which are neither traditional nor boring.

This recipe will work without the vital wheat gluten. It will taste the same but you might not get the same rise and softness.

3 teaspoons instant yeast 
I use SAF instant

1 cup (0.44 lb)(200 g) sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

5 Tablespoons (2.5 oz)(70 g) unsalted butter 

5 egg yolks
Use up the 5 whites in my Chocolate Pavlova recipe or my White Pavlova recipe.

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

1/4 + 1/8 cup water

1 whole dried Sugar Frosted Tangerines cut into small dice to give you 1/3 cup (5 Tablespoons) 
OR
4 Tablespoons mixed citrus peel
I prefer to use dried Sugar Frosted Tangerine as I do not like the look or taste of those glassy, syrupy looking mixed citrus peel  - too acrid and artificial tasting. 

I buy the tangerines from Traditional Chinese Medicine shops. It comes in the shape of a flattened tangerine and goes by 'Ji Bing". One fruit would give you about 1/3 cup (5 Tablespoons) of diced tangerine peel. I have seen them sold locally in just a few supermarkets. Asian grocery stores should have them in stock.

To use, cut into wedges like I did and remove any seeds or hard pith. Sometimes there will be just a few of these, other times plenty! Cut further into smaller pieces.

They are really nice eaten as candy. I also use it in combination with chinese tea leaves, chrysanthemum, wolfberries/goji berries, red dates, ginseng etc. to brew a wonderful blend of tea.

I have also replaced Sugar Frosted Tangerines/Mixed Citrus Peel with Sugar Frosted Winter Melon strips. While it imparts no citrus flavour, it was delicious. Like the tangerines, they can be eaten like a dried fruit treat.

Sugar Frosted Winter Melon Strips can be purchased easily locally. Asian grocery stores would stock them too. I used these same Melon Strips in my Ginger Tea

There's a picture and a short write up of those yummy strips in that post.
.
1/3 cup (1.65 oz) (47g) slivered almonds   

Extra butter for buttering mixer bowl, dough, etc

Sugar Lemon Icing 

2 cup icing sugar 

1 T cream/milk

3 T lemon juice (strained) 

Method

2 tasks best done overnight

(1) Plumping up the dried fruits 
Add the dried fruits (not the sugared frosted fruits) into the 1/4 cup of orange juice/rum. Stir to mix. Leave overnight. 

If you have forgotten to plump them up overnight, microwave 30 seconds on high. Remove and stir to mix. Return to microwave and zap it for another 30 seconds. Remove from the microwave, cover with plastic wrap and set aside.

(2) Seeping saffron in milk 

Place the saffron threads in the 3/4 cup of milk. Leave overnight to get maximum colour and flavour out of the saffron.

If not, soak at least 2 hours.

Ready to start on the dough?

This bread, from start to finish - preparation, rising times, allowing the bread to cool and then icing it - will take a minimum of 10 hours. 

Yes, I agree it is a long time. Maybe this is why kulich is a bread reserved to be baked and served for Easter. For those who grew up eating their mom's and grandma's kulich, I can imagine it would be well worth the effort to bake as the kulich would have deep emotional and perhaps religious significance to them.

It will take on average between 3 to 6 hours (on a hot and humid day) for this rich dough to complete the first rise.  It might take longer where you live.  

The dough

Dry ingredients: In a large mixing bowl, mix well, the flour, vital wheat gluten, salt, sugar and yeast.

Wet ingredients: Melt the butter and pour it into the milk with the saffron in it. Whisk in the egg yolks and vanilla essence. Mix well. The mixture should not be hot or it will kill the yeast. It should be comfortably warm when you add it into the dry ingredients. 

Do not add the 1/4 +1/8 cup of water. You will use it later.

Using a mixer

I use a standing mixer, my KitchenAid. A hand held mixer will not be powerful enough to work this dough.

Attach dough hook to beater shaft. Lock in the mixing bowl. 

Make a well and pour in the wet ingredients. Start the machine on low speed and work it up slowly to medium high speed.

After less than 1 minute or when most of the wet ingredients has been mixed into the dry ingredients (the mix will look dry), with the machine still running, gradually pour in the 1/4 cup of water down the insides of the mixing bowl. I find that doing this helps to bring the dough together and the direct water to yeast contact helps yeast activation.

Let the machine run for 5 minutes without adding anymore water or flour.

Stop the machine and scrapped down the sides of the bowl with a buttered dough scraper. 

If the mixture seems dry and does not seem to be coming together to form a pliable dough, with the machine running, start adding a little of the 1/8 cup of water. Let the machine run for 2 minutes and work in more water the same way if required. 

As you add water, you might worry about the sides of the mixer bowl becoming even more sticky. Just stop the machine and scrape down sides of bowl with a buttered dough scrapper and then turn the mixer back on. 
As you repeat this routine of adding water, scraping down, turning mixer back on, the dough will become silkier, more elastic and the sides of the bowl will become less sticky. It could take 10 minutes perhaps more.
Pull on the dough. If it feels at all tight, add another tablespoon of water and continue to run the machine. The texture of the dough should look like the one featured below.







Do not be tempted to add flour as it would only bake a very heavy and dry loaf. I would rather butter the insides of the mixer bowl lightly, if at all, if I thought it was getting too sticky.

Err on the side of a more moist dough. Keep in mind that the final dough will be a slightly sticky dough. The sides of the bowl will however be almost cleaned of dough as you would have been scrapping the bowl clean through the process. 

Do not flour but oil/butter your hands and the dough scraper.

With the help of the dough scraper, scrape sides of bowl clean, pick the dough up and form into a round ball. Tuck loose ends under the dough. 

Before returning dough to mixer bowl, oil/butter the bowl. Return dough to mixer bowl. Cover with plastic wrap.
This dough is very rich and will take a longer time to rise to almost double its size. 3 to 6 hours on a hot and humid day.

Update: Having made kulichi numerous times by now, I find that what works best for me is to prepare this dough at night and leave it to rise overnight and up to 2 days in the refrigerator. Spreading out the work is less stressful and it helps further develop the flavour of the bread. Refrigerate dough in a container 2X its volume to allow for expansion. Remember to cover the container to avoid dough drying out.

Working dough by hand

Place dry ingredients on a flat working surface or in a very large bowl.


Create a well in the centre of dry ingredients. Pour the all wet ingredients (except water) in it and with your hands, work it in slowly into the dry ingredients. 

3/4 way working in the wet ingredients, distribute the water evenly and continue to incorporate to form a dough.

I find that adding the water separately helps to bring the dough together and the direct water to yeast contact helps yeast activation.

Once you have incorporated dry and wet ingredients, place the dough on your work surface which has been buttered very lightly.

To start kneading, you have to work with pushing the dough out with the palm of your hand and pulling it back with your fingers.

This dough will start off very wet and sticky. Use a buttered dough scraper to help clean the kneading surface and gather up the dough as you knead. 

I would try to hold off the flour otherwise you might end up with very dry and dense loaves. I would rather butter lightly.

As you knead, the dough will become less sticky, silky and elastic. It could take 20 minutes and possibly more.

If you pull on the dough and if it feels at all tight, add another tablespoon of water and continue to knead. You will know you are doing well when you find yourself working with a smooth elastic ball. 

Shape into a round ball, tuck loose ends under the dough. Do not be tempted to add more flour, instead butter your hands if it gets too sticky. 

Butter your bowl which should be large enough to allow the dough to almost double in size. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and let it rise in a warm place until almost double in size. 

This dough is very rich and will take a longer time to rise to almost double its size. 3 to 6 hours on a hot and humid day.

Update: Having made kulichi numerous times by now, I find that what works best for me is to prepare this dough at night and leave it to rise overnight and up to 2 days in the refrigerator. Spreading out the work is less stressful and it helps further develop the flavour of the bread. Refrigerate dough in a container 2X its volume to allow for expansion. Remember to cover the container to avoid dough drying out. Dough will not double in volume but that's fine.

3 tasks/points to prepare/consider while you wait for dough to rise

(1) Drain the pre-soaked fruits over a strainer 

Leave it to continue draining in the refrigerator. It will be difficult to work the fruits into the dough if you add them in wet.

(2) Kulich will not be Kulich if you do not bake them in cylindrical vessels. Choose the size and material of your baking vessels carefully.

This warrants a more detailed explanation as whether the kulich bakes through and is able to stand up tall and sturdy depends on the baking vessels. Please scroll down to 'Tips'.


(3) Preparing the cylindrical baking cans

Firstly, if you have not, please scroll down to 'Tips' to decide how many loafs you will be baking and the corresponding sizes of the cylindrical baking cans you will have to use.

Try and choose one with a replaceable metal lid. If you should for any reason have problems removing the Kulich that replaceable lid will come in very handy as you can loosen the Kulich from the bottom.

Use a can opener to open the bottom of the tins. This means that the insides of your tins will be completely straight - no bumps, no lips, no edges to worry about. Do not remove the top end of the tin. 
Butter the insides of the tins lightly with butter - it helps the parchment paper to adhere to the tin. 

Line the base and insides with parchment paper. You should have at least a 2" (5cm) overhang as the bread would likely rise above the tin. I like the parchment paper to just be 1" (2.5cm) short of touching the heating element. There is no guarantee how high the dough will rise and I would rather be safe than sorry.

Use the butter to help 'glue down' the parchment paper where it overlaps. It would make lowering down the dough into this narrow column much easier.

Set aside.
After the first rising - time to mix in dried fruits, sugar frosted fruits/mixed citrus peel & nuts

The dough will rise exponentially. If you poke your finger into the dough, it will leave a dent.
Before you work with the risen dough, with a paper kitchen towel, quickly wipe off excess liquid from the dried fruits and then toss them in 1 to 2 Tablespoons of flour to coat. 

Have the Sugar Frosted Tangerines/Winter Melon strips (if using)/mixed citrus peel and nuts ready. Keep some butter nearby to butter your hands and the dough scrapper.

Punch the dough down to get rid of the air pockets.

Using a mixer to work in dried fruits and nuts

With the machine running on low-medium, add the dried fruits, tangerines/winter melon and nuts in three intervals into the dough. Work fast and do not over knead as the fruits will likely get smashed up. 

I usually stop the machine in between intervals and use my buttered hands and the dough scrapper to help turn the dough over to evenly distribute the dried fruits and tangerine /winter melon and then turn the machine back on to further mix dried fruits evenly. It should take no longer than 5 minutes. The final mixing is better done with your buttered hands and dough scrapper.

If you take too long to mix and over work or over knead, the liquid from the pre-soaked dried fruits will start to seep out, making the dough stickier and more difficult to work with. 

Whether you use the machine or your hands to mix in the ingredients, work lightly, with buttered hands and dough scrapper. 

If it should get impossible to work with the dough, cover the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes and return to work on it.

Working dried fruits and nuts in by hand


Roll or spread the dough out into a large rectangle and distribute the all the fruits and nuts.
Roll it up into a sausage and pinch the edges in to seal. 
Fold the sausage in 3 and work the dough to incorporate and distribute the dough as evenly as you can. 

It would help if you butter your hands as it will get sticky. Be careful not to squish the dried fruits or the juices will seep and it will be more difficult to handle the sticky dough. As much as you can, butter instead of flour your hands to work the fruits in. 

If it should get impossible to work with the dough, cover the dough and let it rest for 10 minutes and return to work on it.

Divide the dough into balls 
  • Baking in one '3 lb coffee can' and one '2 lb coffee can'
Divide the dough into 70% 30%
  • Baking in two '2 lb coffee can' and one large 'emptied can of peaches'
Divide dough into 40% 40% 20%

Shape dough into balls and let it go through second rising

To do this, cup your hands around the dough. With dough and cup hands resting on the work surface, start rotating the dough clockwise, pulling the dough down towards the work surface as you try and stretch dough downwards to neaten the surface of the dough to create a smooth ball.

The smoother you can pull in the ends and tuck them under, the better the chance of baking a kulich with a smooth round dome.

Place this dough into the baking vessel. 

Unless you have a very long torso, I find it easiest to put the baking vessel on the flour and lower the dough in as I can extend my hands fully down to carefully lower the dough into a rather narrow opening.

Look at the dough in the vessels. Keep in mind to <<<Only fill the baking vessel with between 1/3 and less than 1/2 full of dough>> . Redistribute the dough accordingly if necessary.

If you think you have too much dough, bake it separately in a third baking vessel or simply shape into a round ball and bake free form. There should not be too much left anyway. 

As a guide, after working in the fruits and nuts, I weighed the dough - (3.3lbs)(1.5kg).

Cover with plastic wrap and let it rise for the second time. It should more than double its size ~ 2 to 4 hours. 

However, if you had refrigerated the dough overnight instead of letting it rise on the kitchen counter, the dough is unlikely to double in size. That is fine. Do the finger test (below) instead to determine when it is ready for the oven. As the dough had come straight out from the refrigerator, it will take longer than 2 to 4 hours for it to rise. I can usually count on 6 hours and even then, it will not have doubled in size.

When has it proofed sufficiently? When you touch the side of the loaf lightly with one finger, it will spring back and leave and ever so light indentation that will fill back up.

Baking

Heat oven to 350F (175C).

Adjust oven rack to lowest possible position. 
  • Baking one '3 lb coffee can' and one '2 lb coffee can'
As soon as dough is placed in the oven, cover with a single sheet of aluminium foil.

'2 lb coffee can' - bake 55 to 60 minutes

'3 lb coffee can' - bake 1 hour and 25-30 minutes 

Do not open the oven door before the recommended baking times to check on loaf. 
  • Baking two '2 lb coffee can' and one the size of a large 'emptied can of peaches'
As soon as dough is placed in the oven, cover with a single sheet of aluminium foil.

'2 lb coffee can' - bake 60 minutes'

Large 'emptied can of peaches' - bake 50 minutes

Do not open the oven door before the recommended baking times to check on loaf. 

If you decide to use baking vessels different from mine, either in terms of size or the material of the vessel, adjust baking times accordingly. 

I have not baked these in kulich baking paper pans (similar to cupcake/muffin paper cups) but my guess is it would take 3/4 of the cooking time compared to those baked in cans.

How to tell when the kulich is baked through?

For those baking kulichi for the first time and even for me (after baking 6 batches), it is at times still a challenge and almost more of guess work to determine when the kulichi are baked through. 

Kulichi baked in cylindrical food cans will rise very high. No thermometer would be long enough to probe through into the bottom half of the loaf to measure if it is cooked. Even if you did find a long enough thermometer, every insertion will leave holes through the bread and destabilise a loaf that had not completed baking through. 

Some cookbooks will recommend inserting a long wooden skewer to test for doneness. That will not work either as you have a bread loaded with fruit and if you pierce through fruit, the skewer will not come out clean. 

You can't be tapping on the bottom of the loaves either to determine when they are cooked. By the time you remove the loaf from the cylindrical can, an uncooked loaf would have collapsed. Then you have the extra hassle of trying to shove the already uncooked and wobbly loaf back into the long narrow vessel.

Each time you open the oven door before the recommended cooking time, the more you destabilise it and the higher the chance of your loaf collapsing.

Conclusion:
  • Set yourself up for a successful bake, by keeping to the recommended baking cans, its respective can dimensions and the respective baking times.
  • Keep oven doors closed and only check on the bread after the recommended baking times.
  • The top of the loaves will definitely have browned nicely.
  • Remove the loaves with the cans laying on its side. Slide out the loaves.
  • Before you completely slide out the loaves, if they look at all pale, it would be best to quickly pop them back into the cans and back into the oven to bake further. Try to minimise doing this.
  • Should any loaf collapse, remove completely from the baking vessel, lay it on its side, dented side facing downwards and continue baking directly on the oven rack until cooked. Don't fret too much. These make excellent bread and butter pudding.
Making Sugar Lemon Icing
Prepare the icing whilst the loaves are baking.

Sift the icing sugar to avoid sugar lumps into a deep bowl. Mix the cream/milk with the lemon juice. Add 3 Tablespoons of this into the icing sugar and work it in. 

Gradually add 1/8 teaspoon or less in at a time as a little goes a long way. Add just enough until you have a thick paste that isn't too runny but still promises to flow down the sides of the kulichi.

This recipe makes just enough of Sugar Lemon Icing to cover the tops. If you would like a more generous flow of icing, increase the ingredients 1.5X.
Traditionally, the initials 'XB' might be piped on the kulichi. It is the Cyrillic symbol for the phrase 'Christ is Risen.' The phrase is apparently used as a greeting exchange at Easter.

You decorate it the way you like or not at all.

Kulichi must be completely cooled before icing.

Store in airtight containers.

Tips

Kulich will not be Kulich if you do not bake them in cylindrical vessels. Choose the material and size of your baking vessels carefully.
  • Let's start with the material the baking vessel is made of
To get its characteristically tall and dome shaped, baking in emptied cylindrical food cans would be ideal. However, not all cans are made the same. Some cans are made of thicker plates of tin. For my recipe, I want to get thinner ones so that the loaf cooks faster.

A real problem with baking Kulich in cans is that the kind people who take the time to share their Kulich recipes do not realise that cans come in varying thickness of tin and this does affect baking times in more ways than one can imagine. 

If the recipe developer had baked it in a can whose thickness composition was the opposite of the can you chose, and you followed the recommended baking times, than you could face either of 2 scenarios at the end of the recommended baking time:
  • Kulich would have been over baked - way too brown, too dry (you had clearly used a can with a thinner plate of tin).
  • Kulich would have been under baked - loaf looks nicely browned on the tops and sides but upon releasing from the can, the bottom 2/3 of the loaf is pale or perhaps lightly browned and the bottom 1/3 of the loaf would have caved in. The loaf definitely will not be able to stand upright (you had used a can with a thicker plate of tin).
This issue would be exacerbated if you were to attempt baking a kulich in a '3 lb coffee can'. Consider how heavily laden with eggs, butter, milk, fruits and nuts the dough is to begin with and now we are trying to squeeze almost all of the dough in that can instead of spreading it out into 3 smaller cans. The larger your loaf, the more of a challenge it would be to bake it successfully in a can.

From my frenzied kulich baking episodes, I know a '3 lb coffee can' kulich bakes in 1 hour 30 minutes in a can with thinner tin plates. The same dough will take 2 hours in a can made with thicker tin plates. 

This is a significant time difference. Baked unwittingly in a can with the wrong thickness, this larger than usual kulich is guaranteed to either be baked close to toast or under baked and collapse. I had my first 3 collapse on me before I realise it was the thickness of the tin plates (and other reasons which I discuss below).

In the grocery store, it would be difficult to tell the thickness of the tin plates on cans. So how do you choose? This is when I say, having those lovely grandmas and mothers who are Russian Kulich Bakers experts in your kitchen would be ideal.  After years of annual kulich baking, they would know for certain the best vessels to use and the exact baking time. Then again, if you don't live where they live, you won't be able to get your hands on the cans they are using. 

So we have to settle on choosing, as wisely as we can, with some guesswork and hopefully not through too much trial and error. I have done a lot of the trial and error for you.

Besides using cylindrical food cans, there are kulich (or panettone) baking paper pans (similar to cupcake/muffin paper cups) which you can purchase. These paper liners are rather stout. Kulichi baked in these would not have the characteristically tall and lean look. They will look like cakes. 

The plus side is, kulichi baked in these paper liners, bake quicker. It is also much easier to tell when the kulich is baked through and hence there is a much reduced chance of a bad bake. Not easily available though. 
  • Size of the baking vessel
These are the cans I have used to bake Kulich.


From left to right

Equivalent to the USA '3 lb coffee can' that is mentioned in recipes 
  • (111.59us fl oz; 6"x8") (3.3 litres;15x20cm).
Equivalent to the USA '3 lb coffee can' that is mentioned in recipes 
  • (101.44us fl oz; 6.375"x7") (3 litres;16x18cm). 
This is a Milo tin, content weight was 1.4kg. Milo is also sold in 500g, 1kg, 1.25kg, 1.8 kg. 

Equivalent to the USA '2 lb coffee can'. This is often the preferred size of can suggested in recipes. 
  • (64.24us fl oz; 5"x6.5") (1.9 litres 13x17cm)
Equivalent to the USA '2 lb coffee can'. This is often the preferred size of can suggested in recipes. 
  • (57.48us fl oz) (5"x5.75')  (1.7 litres; 13x15cm),  
Large can of fruits/vegetables. Peaches in this case. This is also a preferred size as a smaller can size means an easier, quicker bake and sturdier Kulich. 

(28us fl oz; 4"x4.75")  (0.825 litres; 10x12cm)

I found this website on USA can sizes useful http://sizes.com/home/cans.htm

How to choose a can made with a thinner sheet of tin?

I know the Milo can that I used was thick. That Milo was labelled 1.4kg on the outside. For can dimensions, refer to measurements above. It took way too long to bake and I would not recommend it. You would be checking on the bread far too many times - opening and closing oven door, poking a skewer/thermometer through it ever so often, the bread will be ruined one way or another.

I moved on to a wafer can - first can from the left of the picture above. I had to spend some time at the grocery store using my thumb and my index figure to flick the can to try and determine if it was made of a thinner sheet of tin than the Milo can. Yes, I did illicit some curious stares from fellow shoppers.  

After flicking my fingers through, 3 lb cans of baby milk powder, adult milk powder, oats in various forms, whey protein, the wafer can looked and sounded a bit more hollow than the Milo can at home.

At home, I took a better look at this new can and the Milo can. It was clearly thinner. This can ended up baking a kulich evenly and in 1 hour 30 minutes and it did not wobble in the slightest bit. I am keeping that can for future kulich baking.

Conclusion:  There is really no clear direction I can give as there are too many cans out on the supermarket shelves. So let's try and minimise the margin of error.
  1. Stay away from the Milo can. I might also be cautious about milk powder cans.
  2. As mine is a wafer can, you could try looking for a similar can. A wafer can or biscuit/cookie can perhaps? 
  3. Once you have had a successful bake in the can that you have chosen, make a mental note of it and use the same can for future kulich baking.
  4. Try and choose one with a replaceable metal lid like the first 4 cans you see in the picture above. If you should for any reason have problems removing the kulich than that replaceable lid will come in very handy as you can loosen the kulich from the bottom.
What size of a kulich should you bake?
  • Two '2 lb coffee can' and one 'Large can of peaches (fruits/vegetables)'
Scroll above for can dimensions

You have a much better chance of success if you split your baking into 3 cans. The loaves will bake faster and is less likely to collapse. 

As it is, the dough is heavily laden with fruits and nuts, splitting it up to bake into more manageable size(s) helps to bake it through evenly with the best possible rise.
  • One '3 lb coffee can' and one '2 lb coffee can'
Scroll above for can dimensions

So determined was I to bake the tallest kulich possible, I chose to bake in a '3 lb coffee can' size. Recipes I had read were after all telling me that it was possible to bake it in a '3 lb coffee can' even if they were all in fact being baked in at least two '2 lb coffee cans'. 

It certainly is possible to bake a '3 lb coffee can' size kulich but you really cannot squeeze a dough made up of 4 and 1/2 cups of flour and over 1 and 1/2 cups of dried fruits and nuts into a '3 lb coffee can'. Way too much dough. My loaf always ended up hitting the heating element. Don't cramp the dough into the baking can.

Conclusion: Whatever size container you decide to bake the kulich in, only fill the baking vessel with between 1/3 and less than 1/2 full of dough. 

As there are a lot of variables involved with kulich baking, please keep in mind that my recipe and the baking times is in reference to the cylindrical food cans (i.e. dimensions and thinner tin plates) that I had used.

I have not baked with kulich baking paper pans and I can only guess that it would take 3/4 of the baking time my recipe requires.

WHAT'S COMING UP NEXT?                                                 
It has to be the accompaniment to kulich, pashka. It is worth making this home made cheese spread that is studded with fruits. This creamy spread makes the kulich taste richer and more luxurious. Thank goodness, it is way easier to put together compared to the kulich!

2 comments:

  1. Wow! This russian bread looks delicious! I want to try this recipe.

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! It is so nice of you to say that. Let me know should you have questions with the recipe.

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